Monday, February 15, 2016

Homesteading in Chile - Part 1 - Finding land


Quiet country road with blueberry farm on the left


Homesteading in Chile has its particular difficulties that may or may not be similar to homesteading in the US but I want to share our version of homesteading Chilean style!

The whole concept of homesteading and living a self sufficient lifestyle is a little foreign to most Chileans as 85% of them live in urban areas. Even out here in the farm country of the south the concept is puzzling to our neighbors after all you can't make your own Coca Cola! (that's what our neighbor said when we told her we were trying to be self sufficient) Many people own farms but live in the city, don't drink the milk they produce on their own dairy farms, kill and toss the bull calves instead of eating them, and rarely have more than a day or two's worth of food in the house. Though many grow a lot of their own food in gardens and greenhouses and live and eat simply, eating simply for Chileans means lots of bread. I'm not meaning to sound condescending, I'm just saying I have a different North American perspective that they don't always understand and that's ok!

Well, the first step in homesteading is to find your land. This in itself is very challenging as the only place with anything close to an MLS is Santiago. Realtors are not regulated and anyone can say they are an "immobiliaria" who knows a few neighbors who want to sell. So often they only know the properties in their own backyard. Finding property is all about who you know.The key here is to get out and meet people, talk to people and spread the word around that you are looking for property. It sure helps to know the language or bring along someone who does. Try to get a feel for the prices because many are quite willing to take advantage of a gringo.

But where in Chile? It is so large and has many different climates. I would suggest some travel to explore the different areas first. North of Santiago, which is centrally located, is very dry and includes the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.These would be Regions 15 and 1-5. Probably not the best for a small farm because of the lack of water and water rights are a problem in the dry areas.  Just south of Santiago are the agricultural regions 6 & 7 with grape vineyards and lots of fruit trees. The climate is Mediterranean meaning warm to hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Land here is at a premium and you pay more for productive farmland. The 8th region is the home to large tracts of pine trees for the wood industry and the 9th region is Chile's breadbasket grain growing area while the 10th region is dairy country. The climate of the 10th region is temperate with mild dry summers and cool wet winters. I think land in these areas is fertile, productive, and relatively inexpensive. We estimated from all the different land we looked at in the 10th region that a good price would be around $2,500 USD per acre  or $5,700 USD per hectare. The 11th and 12th regions are cold, rugged, and remote and the land is probably cheap!

This eucalyptus grove would provide a lot of firewood

Here are a few tips on what to look for as you are looking at properties.

1. Is it big enough for your needs?
pasture and forest - we wanted a mix - pasture for animals - you need 1.8 acres per cow- forest for privacy and the lumber - you need a 10 acre wood lot to be self sufficient in firewood and firewood is the primary way to heat homes in this area - space for a greenhouse and an orchard

2.  How does the land lay? 
flat areas hopefully in the pasture and some hills for interest - we like a varied landscape and didn't want a pancake flat piece of land - move yourself in and see how workable the place is - where can you put your house and the barn, the vegie garden, chicken coop, orchard, etc.

3. Does the land drain well?
make sure you have good drainage- if the pastures are flat look for signs of wet grass and puddles which indicate a high water table or drainage problems

4. Is the soil fertile?
look at the soil - is it a deep, dark color and loamy? if you are going to live off the land you want it to be fertile- stones, clay or sand may make your life difficult

5. Does the property have good access?
make sure you have access from the road- one property we looked at you had to drive through someone else's farm to get to it and the drive was so rutted and filled with giant puddles that we actually had to drive through the pastures and gates

6. Does it have any running or standing water?
we wanted a year round running river or creek or pond for possible power generation or irrigation water or even drinking water- make sure you have rights to use it - in our water rich area this isn't a consideration but in many areas of Chile you have to be granted the rights to use the water running through your property

7. What utilities are available?
 we have power lines running through our property but the power company wanted $5,000 just to hook up so we went off grid with solar which we wanted to do anyway and we have no water or sewer utilities either which was fine for us as we dug the septic system (no permits needed) and pump our own water from a spring. We had the water tested for drinkability at the local farm supply store - internet is a consideration also- towns usually have high speed internet but not out in the country- dish service can be expensive and sketchy at best- a data plan through your cellular service may be your only option

These Pellin trees are a good sign of fertile farmland
Here are a few links to sites that list properties. I do not know and cannot vouch for either of these sites but it is interesting to see what is available.

http://www.chileproperty.com/

http://www.southernchileproperties.com/




Saturday, February 13, 2016

News in Review - February 13, 2016


Santiago from Cerro San Cristobal


I decided I need to be more aware of the news happening in my own backyard so I thought I would share a weekly or monthly (honestly , I don't know if enough exciting things happen here on a weekly basis :) review of the most interesting news stories in Chile. Though there are several news outlets online in Chile like the Santiago Times the best and latest stories actually come from the UK -the Telegraph and the Guardian.  The Santiago Times english version is outdated.  I love Chile news is a great website written in english but is offline a lot of times and the news is more blogish than news reporting.  Biobiochile.cl is another site with an english version though if you want to get local news you need to use the castellano version and let google translate it for you. And This is Chile website
has some great info about traveling, living, studying, and doing business in Chile plus some news on culture, education, tourism, sports, science, and much more. A really beautiful website.
 Since this is the first time I am posting news stories some will be older than this past week.

Smugglers steal rare albino falcon eggs

Corruption in Bachelet Family

Chilean miners feel cheated


Toilet paper collusion


The largest solar power plant in SA


Giant Waves over turn car in Vina del Mar- video


Chile is one of the best places in the world to do business according to Forbes


First image of a red super giant star from Chilean observatory

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Getting a Chilean Driver's License


The Municipal Building in Osorno
We received our permanent residency about a year ago and by law we should have gotten our Chilean driver's license but you know how life can be and the time just slipped by. Despite the rumors we had heard of expats being taken to jail and fined for not having a Chilean license and despite the fact that we could study and take the test in english (effective in 2015), we just kept procrastinating. We were banking on the idea that the local carabineros don't know much about foreigners and maybe don't know that we should have our chilean license. So we haven't had any problems yet! If you are just visiting Chile, you need a valid US driver's license and the Embassy recommends an International Driver's license which you can get from AAA but when we were pulled over the officer was not at all interested in that just the South Carolina license.
This week we went by the Municipal Building in Osorno to see what we needed to do.

The line was short- no number needed. I think the line is always short- most Chileans don't own a car. only 230 out of every 1,000 according to Wikipedia for 2013 (the US has 809 per 1,000 for comparison). Cars here are expensive and so is fuel and there is an extensive, reliable, and cheap bus system.

But here is what you must have:
1. Your RUN card aka carnet or cedula.This is your national ID card which you should receive when you are approved for temporary residency.
2. A document proving you have received at least an 8th grade education.

For us this was Jim's Bachelor's degree which had been notarized, legalized by the Attorney General of Florida, stamped by the Chilean Consulate of Miami, stamped by the Foreign Relations office in Santiago, and should have been stamped by the Education Ministry also in Santiago but the director of the office gave us a break since we didn't have this stamp and just had the document notarized again! by the local notary office next door.  It didn't matter that Jim has been driving for 40 years including cars, trucks, tractors, airplanes, and submarines. They wouldn't just issue another license. He has to go through the process which includes a written test, driving test, and vision test.
So Jim signed up to take the test on March 1. He will be taking the test for the Class B license for private car owners. Class A is for public transport drivers and Class C is for motorcycles. We paid 29,221 pesos around $40 USD

Check back next month to see if Jim passes his driver's test!
Here are some links of interest
the New Drivers handbook in English
http://www.conaset.cl/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/new-drivers-handbook-7-04.pdf
 a government services website called Chile Atiende - this link goes to the page on driver's license
https://www.chileatiende.gob.cl/fichas/ver/20592


Monday, February 1, 2016

Crime & Safety in Chile


The Carabinero station in Puerto Octay. You can find these offices in almost any small town always in green and white.We personally know several of the carabineros in our town and find them to be friendly and helpful. We heard that in Ecuador the police don't care about crime against gringos but it's not that way here. Our local guys stopped by our farm to welcome us and help us robber proof our farm. And you never try to bribe a carabinero. They pride themselves on honesty and integrity. It's not uncommon to find checkpoints in front of the carabinero station. They pull over every 3rd car and just check your license and to see if you have paid your local car tax. In the US, I always felt that the police were out to get you good or bad but I don't get that feeling here. Speed traps are uncommon and non-existent off the main highway and the carabineros don't engage in high speed chases to catch the bad guy.

Crime, especially theft, is notoriously bad in South America. In the cities, all the houses are behind bars. Pick pocketing and purse snatching as well as car theft are common.

We personally have not been affected by crime in the 2 1/2 years we have lived here. And honestly, I can only remember one instant in which I felt unsafe here. It was night and we were driving through a not so nice area of Santiago. There were parts of Greenville and Spartanburg, South Carolina we wouldn't dare go through even during the day. Jim had been almost attacked on at least 2 or 3 occasions doing appraisals in dangerous neighborhoods in the US.

Even in public housing here in our little town in the south of Chile, we feel safe. The atmosphere is different. There aren't gangs of kids hanging around with bad attitudes.

I joke that criminals in Chile are the non-confrontational kind. They may want to rob you blind but only behind your back!Violent crime is low and kidnappings and random shootings are almost unheard of.
Here are some statistics for you taken from this government website linked below and wikipedia.

https://www.osac.gov/pages/ContentReportDetails.aspx?cid=17197

For the year 2012
Murder rate is 3.1 per 100,000 and the USA is 3.8 per 100,000
That totals out to be 550 murders in Chile and 12,253 in the USA
This is the lowest homicide rate in South America.
So if safety is a concern, as it is for most of us, Chile is one of the safest places in South America.



Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Snakes in Chile ?!?!

Snakes in Chile?
Some city slickers believe there are no snakes in Chile!
Well, guess what?
There are.
Go to this link
https://patagonianaturejournal.wordpress.com/

and find out the real truth about snakes in Chile ....



File:Red milk snake.JPG
Photo borrowed from Wikipedia

Monday, January 25, 2016

Volcan Casablanca

In the Parque Nacional Puyehue are hot springs, a ski resort, and great trails for hiking. You enter this area through the town of Entrelagos. A very nice little town that welcomes Argentinian visitors through the mountain pass.


Heading east on Hwy 215 there are great views of the lake and Volcan Puyehue which erupted about 6 years ago. Here also is Termas de Puyehue, a fancy overpriced resort. You can find them on Trip Advisor with mixed reviews. But behind them is Aguas Calientes. I've done a post on this more affordable option to enjoy the hot springs before. If you continue on the road into the park, you can drive the 18 km on a dirt road up to Antillanca, the ski resort. We were up there in the summer so I'll leave a post about the ski resort for another time. In the off season though, for only 10,000 pesos (about $15) you can drive to the top of Volcan Casablanca and it's crater.

Here is part of the ski lodge and at the right is a gate and a sign that says "Al Crater" 10,000 pesos
To the crater, 10,000 pesos per car




A panorama of the crater



The road looking back towards the ski lodge





Our Toyota Prada  does great off road




The boys being adventurous and energetic as they are hiked out to that point to the left of Andrew in the above photo. And the rest of these pictures were taken from that view point.





This is looking south towards Volcan Puntiagudo and Lago Rupanco




This is such an awesome place! You feel like you are at the top of the world. And the funny thing is no one is ever here! I have never seen it mentioned in any guide books as a tourist attraction. We just found it by chance and the first time we weren't even sure if we were allowed up there as the gate was open and we just drove in.




Sunday, January 24, 2016

Sendero Desolacion




Desolation Path
Sounds pretty intimidating
24 km of rocky trail up to 5600 ft on the side of a volcano
and down to the lake along the beach
to add to the fun - inches of ash from the last eruption (Calbuco in April 2015)
horse flies from Jurassic Park (fortunately they only live for 3 weeks in January) and the blistering sun which is particularly intense here as the ozone layer is a bit thin.

The journey starts at the Refugio in La Picada which is on the north side of the Volcano Osorno in the Parque Vicentes Perez Rosales There is free parking here and sometimes a little cafe is open.


Here is the start of the trail - not for the faint of heart




The first 4 km is all uphill and very rocky - impassable by car though I think it once was. Jimmy told me they carried their bikes up to the top of the trail at 5600 ft. The sign says high difficulty and walking it would be 10 hours down to the lake and back.


Typical terrain on the way up



At the top!


Worth the work to get up here! A fabulous view of Lago Todos Los Santos and east to Argentina


  You can see Samuel & Andrew on their bikes on the bottom center right


On the right you can see the river heading out of the lake to the sea and there at the head of the river is the small town of Petrohue which is the end of the Sendero.



They made it to Petrohue in 3 hours sunburned and fly bitten but happy for the challenge they conquered. Not much in Pertrohue but a beautiful lodge, a museum, post office, and an office for the ferry and boat tours. More on that in another post!

Saturday, January 16, 2016

Penguins on Chiloe


Last weekend we took the ferry out to Chiloe (pronounce chill-o-way) to see the penguins. We took Ruta 5 (the PanAmerican hwy)south to the end in Pargua to catch the ferry over to the island of Chiloe.


You just drive right on, pay the toll of 12,000 pesos which is about $17 US and enjoy the 30 minute ride over. You can go up top for better viewing. We saw lots of seals swimming in the waves. This is currently the only way to get to the island so there are usually lots of buses and trucks. Sadly, the government is putting in pylons across the Chacao Channel for a bridge. I hope that it doesn't ruin the mystique of this beautiful island.
You then drive to the city of Ancud about 30 minutes away on the north end of the island. It's a pretty fishing town on the bay.
       Once you get into Ancud just follow the signs for about 28 km to the Pinguinera. The views  along the way are spectacular.



At the end of the road, you just drive on the beach and pick your tour boat. There are 4 or 5 services plus a restaurant or 2 and a couple of gift shops.


Tickets are 6,000 pesos for adults and 3,000 for kids for a 30 minute boat ride.
You climb up the cart and they roll you out to the boat tethered in the surf.



These are either Humboldt or Magellanic penguins. Both live in these waters.

And here are the babies waiting to be fed








We also spotted a kelp goose, some steamer ducks, seals, and kelp gulls. The gulls were catching urchins, dropping them on the rocks to crack them, and gobbling up the yummy slime inside.

On the way home we stopped at our favorite beach for biking and fishing. It is miles and miles of beach with few houses or people. You can access the beach by car just a few kilometers from the Pinguinera. It also has some interesting rock formations and caves.




Coming down the road to our favorite beach




This cool rock has a cave in it


Looking to the south - this cliff face has another cave in it


Miles and miles of empty beach
It's so much fun to drive on!
Another magical, mystical day on Chiloe